{"id":904,"date":"2026-06-19T15:21:33","date_gmt":"2026-06-19T15:21:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=904"},"modified":"2026-06-19T16:17:40","modified_gmt":"2026-06-19T16:17:40","slug":"cast-4-japonske-alpy-architektura-modlicich-se-rukou-umeni-horkych-pramenu-a-zkouska-z-jaderne-mixologie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=904","title":{"rendered":"\u010c\u00e1st 4: Japonsk\u00e9 Alpy \u2013 Architektura modl\u00edc\u00edch se rukou, um\u011bn\u00ed hork\u00fdch pramen\u016f a zkou\u0161ka z jadern\u00e9 mixologie"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Po dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v prefektu\u0159e Ishikawa n\u00e1s \u010dekal p\u0159esun do hor. Z Kanazawy jsme tentokr\u00e1t vyrazili autobusem skrze masivn\u00ed tunely a \u00fazk\u00e9 klikat\u00e9 pr\u016fsmyky poho\u0159\u00ed Hida. Cesta nab\u00edz\u00ed \u00fachvatn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na divokou krajinu, ale to prav\u00e9 in\u017een\u00fdrsk\u00e9 a kulturn\u00ed unikum na v\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 a\u017e v samotn\u00e9m \u00fadol\u00ed \u0159eky \u0160\u00f3gawa, kde jsme si ud\u011blali p\u016fldenn\u00ed zast\u00e1vku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vesnice \u0160irakawa-g\u00f3, zapsan\u00e1 od roku 1995 na seznamu Sv\u011btov\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed UNESCO, je proslul\u00e1 svou jedine\u010dnou lidovou architekturou zvanou <em>gassh\u014d-zukuri<\/em> (v doslovn\u00e9m p\u0159ekladu \u201ekonstrukce slo\u017een\u00fdch rukou k modlitb\u011b\u201c). Kdy\u017e se pod\u00edv\u00e1te na masivn\u00ed, a\u017e \u010dty\u0159patrov\u00e9 d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 domy se strm\u00fdmi slam\u011bn\u00fdmi st\u0159echami, tato symbolika je okam\u017eit\u011b z\u0159ejm\u00e1. Za sv\u00e9bytn\u00fdm tvarem stoj\u00ed \u010dist\u011b pragmatick\u00fd boj s drsnou p\u0159\u00edrodou. Oblast <em>Hokuriku<\/em> a p\u0159ilehl\u00e9 Alpy pat\u0159\u00ed k m\u00edst\u016fm s v\u016fbec nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm \u00fahrnem sn\u011bhov\u00fdch sr\u00e1\u017eek na planet\u011b \u2013 v zim\u011b zde b\u011b\u017en\u011b le\u017e\u00ed a\u017e \u010dty\u0159metrov\u00e1 vrstva t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9ho mokr\u00e9ho sn\u011bhu. St\u0159echy proto sv\u00edraj\u00ed extr\u00e9mn\u00ed \u00fahel 60 stup\u0148\u016f, aby sn\u00edh mohl p\u0159irozen\u011b sj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt dol\u016f a svou vahou neprobo\u0159il konstrukci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00dachvatn\u00e9 je samotn\u00e9 stavebn\u00ed in\u017een\u00fdrstv\u00ed: cel\u00e9 ob\u0159\u00ed domy byly stav\u011bny bez pou\u017eit\u00ed jedin\u00e9ho kovov\u00e9ho h\u0159eb\u00edku. Tr\u00e1my jsou spojov\u00e1ny slo\u017eit\u00fdmi tesa\u0159sk\u00fdmi dlaban\u00fdmi spoji a ji\u0161t\u011bny pru\u017en\u00fdmi provazy z konop\u00ed a mlad\u00fdch vrbov\u00fdch proutk\u016f. Tato flexibilita umo\u017e\u0148uje stavb\u011b m\u00edrn\u011b pracovat a absorbovat jak siln\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 v\u011btry, tak \u010dast\u00e9 seismick\u00e9 ot\u0159esy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek p\u0159edstavuje proch\u00e1zka centr\u00e1ln\u00ed osadou Ogima\u010di. Na rozd\u00edl od mnoha skanzen\u016f po sv\u011bt\u011b se zde ned\u00edv\u00e1te na mrtv\u00e9 muzejn\u00ed expon\u00e1ty. V t\u011bchto domech st\u00e1le \u017eij\u00ed b\u011b\u017en\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed zde hospoda\u0159\u00ed, p\u011bstuj\u00ed r\u00fd\u017ei v zatopen\u00fdch pol\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1ch p\u0159\u00edmo mezi stavbami a udr\u017euj\u00ed komunitn\u00ed \u017eivot. Vnit\u0159n\u00ed uspo\u0159\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed dom\u016f reflektuje tehdej\u0161\u00ed ekonomiku regionu. Zat\u00edmco v p\u0159\u00edzem\u00ed se nach\u00e1z\u00ed rodinn\u00e9 z\u00e1zem\u00ed s centr\u00e1ln\u00edm otev\u0159en\u00fdm ohni\u0161t\u011bm <em>irori<\/em>, rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 podkrovn\u00ed prostory pod st\u0159echou historicky slou\u017eily k chovu bource moru\u0161ov\u00e9ho. Teplo a kou\u0159 z ohni\u0161t\u011b stoupaly skrze ro\u0161tov\u00e9 stropy vzh\u016fru, co\u017e udr\u017eovalo ide\u00e1ln\u00ed mikroklima pro housenky produkuj\u00edc\u00ed vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 hedv\u00e1b\u00ed a z\u00e1rove\u0148 kou\u0159 p\u0159irozen\u011b impregnoval slam\u011bnou st\u0159echu proti pl\u00edsn\u00edm a hmyzu. V\u00fdm\u011bna ob\u0159\u00ed slam\u011bn\u00e9 st\u0159echy (<em>kaya<\/em>) je technologicky a logisticky n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd proces, kter\u00fd se mus\u00ed opakovat ka\u017ed\u00fdch 30 a\u017e 40 let. Vy\u017eaduje zapojen\u00ed cel\u00e9 komunity v r\u00e1mci tradi\u010dn\u00edho syst\u00e9mu vz\u00e1jemn\u00e9 pomoci zvan\u00e9ho <em>yui<\/em>. B\u011bhem jedin\u00e9ho v\u00edkendu se na st\u0159e\u0161e sejde a\u017e dv\u011b st\u011b soused\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed starou sl\u00e1mu kompletn\u011b strhnou a polo\u017e\u00ed novou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokud se vyd\u00e1te p\u0159es visut\u00fd most <em>Deai-bashi<\/em> (Most setk\u00e1n\u00ed) klenouc\u00ed se nad drav\u00fdm proudem \u0159eky, dojdete k druh\u00e9, nem\u00e9n\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti \u2013 otev\u0159en\u00e9mu skanzenu <em>Gassh\u014d-zukuri Minkaen<\/em>. Tento are\u00e1l vznikl jako z\u00e1chrann\u00e1 stanice pro tradi\u010dn\u00ed architekturu. V pr\u016fb\u011bhu druh\u00e9 poloviny 20. stolet\u00ed toti\u017e v regionu prob\u00edhala masivn\u00ed v\u00fdstavba p\u0159ehrad a hydroelektr\u00e1ren, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly poh\u00e1n\u011bt pov\u00e1le\u010dn\u00fd japonsk\u00fd pr\u016fmysl, a mnoha okoln\u00edm osad\u00e1m hrozilo definitivn\u00ed zatopen\u00ed. Celkem 25 historick\u00fdch budov bylo proto opatrn\u011b rozebr\u00e1no do posledn\u00edho tr\u00e1mu, p\u0159eneseno za \u0159eku a znovu sestaveno. V are\u00e1lu m\u016f\u017eete nahl\u00e9dnout do \u00fatrob budov, kter\u00e9 jsou detailn\u011b vybaveny p\u016fvodn\u00edm n\u00e1\u0159ad\u00edm, tkalcovsk\u00fdmi stavy a vtipn\u011b p\u016fsob\u00edc\u00edmi n\u00e1stroji na v\u00fdrobu st\u0159eln\u00e9ho prachu um\u00edst\u011bn\u00fdmi hned kousek od otev\u0159en\u00e9ho ohni\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a355824aa78150660df8d66\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a355824aa78150660df8d66\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Z\u00e1kladna v Takajam\u011b: Roho\u017ee tatami a pravidla hork\u00e9 vody<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z \u0160irakawa-g\u00f3 jsme odpoledne pokra\u010dovali dal\u0161\u00edm autobusem do na\u0161\u00ed hlavn\u00ed z\u00e1kladny. Kdy\u017e se \u0159ekne Takajama (my jsme m\u011bste\u010dku famili\u00e1rn\u011b \u0159\u00edkali Tako Dziura), v\u011bt\u0161ina povrchn\u00edch pr\u016fvodc\u016f ji odbyde n\u00e1lepkou \u201emal\u00e9 Kj\u00f3to\u201c. Skute\u010dnost je ale mnohem specifi\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Toto m\u011bsto si zachovalo svou n\u00e1dhernou historickou z\u00e1stavbu z obdob\u00ed <em>Edo<\/em> nejen d\u00edky geografick\u00e9 izolaci, ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm d\u00edky m\u00edstn\u00edm \u0159emesln\u00edk\u016fm. Zdej\u0161\u00ed tesa\u0159i a d\u0159evozpracuj\u00edc\u00ed mist\u0159i, takzvan\u00ed <em>Hida no Takumi<\/em>, byli pova\u017eov\u00e1ni za technologickou a um\u011bleckou \u0161pi\u010dku cel\u00e9ho Japonska. Byli natolik zru\u010dn\u00ed, \u017ee cel\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 oblast Hida byla osvobozena od tradi\u010dn\u00edho placen\u00ed imperi\u00e1ln\u00edch dan\u00ed v r\u00fd\u017ei. M\u00edsto toho platila sv\u00fdmi lidmi \u2013 zdej\u0161\u00ed tesa\u0159i pravideln\u011b putovali do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta a postavili ty nejslo\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chr\u00e1my v Kj\u00f3tu i Na\u0159e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na\u0161\u00edm \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011bm v tomto horsk\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b se stal hotel Takayama Ouan, kter\u00fd nab\u00edz\u00ed zcela specifick\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek propojuj\u00edc\u00ed modern\u00ed infrastrukturu s hlubokou tradic\u00ed. Zm\u011bna atmosf\u00e9ry tu nast\u00e1v\u00e1 u\u017e u vstupn\u00edch dve\u0159\u00ed. U recepce si toti\u017e mus\u00edte okam\u017eit\u011b sundat boty a zamknout je do p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 sk\u0159\u00ed\u0148ky. Cel\u00fd hotel, a to v\u010detn\u011b dlouh\u00fdch chodeb, kabin v\u00fdtah\u016f i samotn\u00fdch pokoj\u016f, je pokryt\u00fd tradi\u010dn\u00edmi roho\u017eemi <em>tatami<\/em>. Chod\u00edte tak celou t\u0159in\u00e1ctipatrovou budovou bu\u010f bosi, nebo ve speci\u00e1ln\u00edch pono\u017ek\u00e1ch. Tento drobn\u00fd detail okam\u017eit\u011b m\u011bn\u00ed akustiku cel\u00e9ho prostoru, tlum\u00ed kroky a navozuje pocit nezvykl\u00e9ho klidu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Skute\u010dn\u00fdm technick\u00fdm a kulturn\u00edm vrcholem pobytu byl ale <em>onsen<\/em> \u2013 tradi\u010dn\u00ed japonsk\u00e9 l\u00e1zn\u011b v nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm pat\u0159e s \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na alpsk\u00e9 vrcholky. Pojem <em>onsen<\/em> se v Japonsku nebere na lehkou v\u00e1hu a rozhodn\u011b nejde o oby\u010dejnou horkou vanu. Aby se pramen mohl legislativn\u011b a ofici\u00e1ln\u011b naz\u00fdvat onsenem, mus\u00ed spl\u0148ovat p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fd z\u00e1kon o hork\u00fdch pramenech z roku 1948 (<em>Onsen H\u00f3<\/em>). Ten exaktn\u011b definuje, \u017ee teplota vody u v\u00fdv\u011bru mus\u00ed p\u0159irozen\u011b p\u0159esahovat 25 \u00b0C a voda mus\u00ed obsahovat alespo\u0148 jeden z devaten\u00e1cti p\u0159esn\u011b p\u0159edepsan\u00fdch chemick\u00fdch prvk\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Koupel v onsenu m\u00e1 sv\u00e1 stalet\u00edmi prov\u011b\u0159en\u00e1, \u017eelezn\u00e1 pravidla. Plavky jsou striktn\u011b zak\u00e1zan\u00e9. Ne\u017e v\u016fbec vstoup\u00edte do hork\u00e9 vody, mus\u00edte se na mal\u00fdch stoli\u010dk\u00e1ch v um\u00fdv\u00e1rn\u011b dokonale um\u00fdt m\u00fddlem a spl\u00e1chnout ze sebe i tu nejmen\u0161\u00ed bublinku mydlin. P\u0159i vstupu dostanete mal\u00fd tenk\u00fd ru\u010dn\u00edk (<em>tenugui<\/em>), kter\u00fd namo\u010d\u00edte do studen\u00e9 vody. Jakmile vstoup\u00edte do vody, nast\u00e1v\u00e1 z\u00e1sadn\u00ed moment \u2013 ru\u010dn\u00edk si mus\u00edte slo\u017eit a polo\u017eit na hlavu (p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b odlo\u017eit na kraj baz\u00e9nu). V \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b se nesm\u00ed dotknout vodn\u00ed hladiny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hotel Takayama Ouan m\u00e1 ov\u0161em je\u0161t\u011b jednu fenomen\u00e1ln\u00ed specialitu. Hork\u00e1 term\u00e1ln\u00ed voda t\u011blo extr\u00e9mn\u011b proh\u0159eje a zrychl\u00ed krevn\u00ed ob\u011bh. Pokud se jdete vykoupat odpoledne nebo ve\u010der, \u010dek\u00e1 na v\u00e1s u v\u00fdchodu z l\u00e1zn\u00ed mraz\u00e1k, ze kter\u00e9ho si m\u016f\u017eete zcela zdarma vz\u00edt v\u00fdborn\u00e9 nanuky na zchlazen\u00ed. A pokud si p\u0159ivstanete a vyraz\u00edte na rann\u00ed koupel, je pro v\u00e1s p\u0159ipravena dal\u0161\u00ed kultovn\u00ed japonsk\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitost \u2013 ledov\u011b vychlazen\u00e9 lahvi\u010dky s ml\u00e9kem a probiotick\u00fdmi n\u00e1poji, kter\u00e9 po hork\u00e9 rann\u00ed vod\u011b funguj\u00ed jako dokonal\u00fd balz\u00e1m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Sobotn\u00ed trhy a cesta v \u010dase do \u00e9ry \u0160\u00f3wa<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V Takajam\u011b jsme m\u011bli \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed na m\u00edstn\u00ed sobotn\u00ed velk\u00fd trh, kde se krom\u011b gastronomick\u00fdch specialit daly koupit i rukod\u011bln\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky. Odpoledne se dokonce konal food festival. M\u00edstn\u00ed speciality a pivo z lok\u00e1ln\u00edho pivovaru byly skv\u011bl\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem. Dali jsme si v\u00fdbornou japonskou variaci na hov\u011bz\u00ed gul\u00e1\u0161 s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed (ale bez papriky) a B\u00e1ra vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed rybu. Uprost\u0159ed trhu byl nav\u00edc st\u00e1nek, kde dva dobrovoln\u00edci p\u0159eb\u00edrali od n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f s hlubokou \u00faklonou a pod\u011bkov\u00e1n\u00edm odpadky, jen aby je mohli vz\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed poctiv\u011b vyt\u0159\u00eddit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Odpoledne jsme zam\u00ed\u0159ili do m\u00edstn\u00edho retro muzea. Expozice sice na japonsk\u00e9 pom\u011bry p\u016fsob\u00ed trochu neuspo\u0159\u00e1dan\u011b a sb\u00edrky jsou m\u00edsty pon\u011bkud chaotick\u00e9, ale tento \u017eiveln\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup z n\u011bj d\u011bl\u00e1 pozoruhodnou zast\u00e1vku. Muzeum funguje jako \u010dasov\u00e1 kapsle evokuj\u00edc\u00ed japonskou \u00e9ru <em>\u0160\u00f3wa<\/em> (p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm jej\u00ed zlat\u00e1 pov\u00e1le\u010dn\u00e1 l\u00e9ta). Na rozd\u00edl od steriln\u00edch modern\u00edch expozic za nepr\u016fst\u0159eln\u00fdm sklem je tohle m\u00edsto zcela kontaktn\u00ed. V\u011bt\u0161inu expon\u00e1t\u016f si zde m\u016f\u017eete vz\u00edt do ruky a vyzkou\u0161et. Zapadnete do ko\u017een\u00e9ho k\u0159esla v dobov\u00e9m holi\u010dstv\u00ed, prozkoum\u00e1te starou l\u00e9ka\u0159skou kliniku nebo se posad\u00edte do dobov\u00e9 \u0161koln\u00ed lavice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Milovn\u00edky techniky zaru\u010den\u011b dostane uvnit\u0159 zaparkovan\u00e1 ikonick\u00e1 motorov\u00e1 t\u0159\u00edkolka Daihatsu Midget (tento konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed kus si zahr\u00e1l ve slavn\u00e9m japonsk\u00e9m retro filmu <em>Always Sunset on Third Street<\/em>). P\u0159i pohledu na jej\u00ed tvary a obna\u017eenou mechaniku si okam\u017eit\u011b p\u0159edstav\u00edte, jak n\u00e1dhern\u011b by tenhle sv\u00e9bytn\u00fd stroj vypadal ztv\u00e1rn\u011bn\u00fd jako propracovan\u00fd plastikov\u00fd model v m\u011b\u0159\u00edtku 1\/24. D\u00e1le tu najdete pln\u011b funk\u010dn\u00ed jukebox na p\u016fvodn\u00ed vinylov\u00e9 desky, star\u00e9 ark\u00e1dov\u00e9 hry, konzole <em>Famicom<\/em> (\u00fapln\u011b prvn\u00ed dom\u00e1c\u00ed Nintendo) a celou \u0159adu p\u016fvodn\u00edch mechanick\u00fdch automat\u016f <em>pa\u010dinko<\/em>. Sta\u010d\u00ed nabrat kovov\u00e9 kuli\u010dky a zkusit \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b stejn\u011b, jako to d\u011blali m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u0159ed p\u016fl stolet\u00edm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Rabbit Hole: Omluvy za rum a barmansk\u00e1 jadern\u00e1 fyzika<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ve\u010der jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili bar Rabbit Hole. Zvenku vypadal jako nen\u00e1padn\u00e1 trafostanice, ale uvnit\u0159 to byl pr\u00e9miov\u00fd podnik von\u00edc\u00ed po v\u010del\u00edm vosku a drah\u00e9m d\u0159ev\u011b. Usadili jsme se k pultu, p\u0159ipraveni na epickou degustaci whisky a rumu. Zhruba za deset vte\u0159in k n\u00e1m p\u0159isp\u011bchal majitel. Zastavil se, vrhl se do \u00faklony tak hlubok\u00e9, \u017ee si m\u00e1lem narazil \u010delo o hranu stolu, a spustil vodop\u00e1d omluv. Nejd\u0159\u00edv jsme usoudili, \u017ee n\u00e1m omylem zap\u00e1lil hotelov\u00fd pokoj. Ale ne. Stra\u0161n\u011b se omlouval, \u017ee n\u00e1m prost\u011b nem\u016f\u017ee nal\u00edt pr\u00e9miov\u00fd japonsk\u00fd rum. Pr\u00fd s n\u00edm v Japonsku teprve za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed a \u201eje\u0161t\u011b nejsou \u00fapln\u011b nejlep\u0161\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b\u201c. Co\u017e je samoz\u0159ejm\u011b absurdn\u00ed, proto\u017ee zrovna na Okinaw\u011b p\u00e1l\u00ed takov\u00e9 rumy, \u017ee by nad nimi i pir\u00e1ti z Karibiku zahodili mapy k pokladu a odst\u011bhovali se do Asie. Pan dom\u00e1c\u00ed n\u00e1m m\u00edsto toho s provinil\u00fdm \u00fasm\u011bvem nab\u00eddl v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00e9 rumy, kter\u00e9 si Japonci nech\u00e1vaj\u00ed na m\u00edru blendovat v zahrani\u010d\u00ed, aby neutrp\u011bla jejich \u010dest. K\u00fdvli jsme. A \u017ee japonsk\u00e1 whisky, kterou n\u00e1m nalil hned vz\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed, pat\u0159\u00ed k absolutn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 \u0161pi\u010dce, nen\u00ed t\u0159eba dod\u00e1vat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">O kousek d\u00e1l barmanka m\u00edchala host\u016fm drinky. Zapome\u0148te na n\u011bjak\u00e9 teatr\u00e1ln\u00ed \u017eonglov\u00e1n\u00ed s lahvemi. St\u00e1la tam s pipetou, barmanskou pinzetou a v\u00fdrazem hlubok\u00e9ho soust\u0159ed\u011bn\u00ed. Ka\u017edou kapku ho\u0159k\u00e9ho lik\u00e9ru d\u00e1vkovala se zaujet\u00edm jadern\u00e9 v\u011bdkyn\u011b, kter\u00e1 pr\u00e1v\u011b lad\u00ed mezeru mezi beryliov\u00fdmi polokoulemi odr\u00e1\u017eej\u00edc\u00edmi neutrony zp\u011bt do uranov\u00e9ho j\u00e1dra. P\u0159esn\u011b balancovala na tenk\u00e9 hranici zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00e9 kriti\u010dnosti a moc dob\u0159e v\u011bd\u011bla, \u017ee neopatrn\u00fd pohyb o jedin\u00fd milimetr znamen\u00e1 promptn\u00ed kritick\u00fd stav, modr\u00fd z\u00e1blesk \u010cerenkovova z\u00e1\u0159en\u00ed a okam\u017eitou evakuaci cel\u00e9 \u010dtvrti. Led do sklenice vkl\u00e1dala s takovou posv\u00e1tnou hr\u016fzou a preciznost\u00ed, jako by \u0161lo o aktivn\u00ed palivov\u00e9 ty\u010de.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A to nejlep\u0161\u00ed p\u0159i\u0161lo nakonec. Kdy\u017e jsme zaplatili a zvedli se k odchodu, bar se prom\u011bnil v perfektn\u011b namazan\u00fd stroj. Obsluha vystartovala. N\u011bkdo n\u00e1m podal kab\u00e1ty, dal\u0161\u00ed stiskl kliku, dal\u0161\u00ed otev\u0159el vn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dve\u0159e. Jeliko\u017e pro v\u0161echny zam\u011bstnance nebylo dost dve\u0159\u00ed, kter\u00e9 by mohli s \u00factou podr\u017eet, zbytek person\u00e1lu prost\u011b vyb\u011bhl na ulici. Kdy\u017e jsme kr\u00e1\u010deli pry\u010d, st\u00e1li tam se\u0159azen\u00ed v \u00fahledn\u00e9m z\u00e1stupu na chodn\u00edku, v dokonal\u00e9m p\u011bta\u010dty\u0159icetistup\u0148ov\u00e9m p\u0159edklonu a sborov\u011b n\u00e1m d\u011bkovali za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu, dokud jsme nezmizeli za rohem ve tm\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Skrz horskou hradbu do \u00fadol\u00ed boh\u016f: Z\u00e1zrak u rybn\u00edka Tai\u0161\u00f3<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kdy\u017e u\u017e tr\u00e1v\u00edte \u010das v horsk\u00e9 Takajam\u011b, byla by chyba nevyu\u017e\u00edt jej\u00ed polohy k v\u00fdprav\u011b do samotn\u00e9ho srdce Japonsk\u00fdch Alp. Na\u0161\u00edm dal\u0161\u00edm c\u00edlem se stalo \u00fadol\u00ed Kamik\u00f3\u010di, konkr\u00e9tn\u011b oblast kolem rybn\u00edka <em>Tai\u0161\u00f3<\/em> (<em>Taisho-ike<\/em>). Cesta tam je fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed uk\u00e1zkou toho, jak drsn\u00e1 a nevyzpytateln\u00e1 um\u00ed horsk\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda b\u00fdt, a z\u00e1rove\u0148 jak brilantn\u011b se s n\u00ed dok\u00e1zalo vypo\u0159\u00e1dat japonsk\u00e9 dopravn\u00ed in\u017een\u00fdrstv\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">P\u0159i odjezdu z Takajamy se t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9, tmav\u00e9 mraky v\u00e1lely nebezpe\u010dn\u011b n\u00edzko a v\u0161e nasv\u011bd\u010dovalo tomu, \u017ee n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 trek v lij\u00e1ku. Pak ale p\u0159i\u0161el na \u0159adu pr\u016fjezd masivn\u00edm tunelov\u00fdm komplexem <em>Abo<\/em> (<em>Abo Toge Road<\/em>). Tento v\u00edce ne\u017e p\u011btikilometrov\u00fd in\u017een\u00fdrsk\u00fd z\u00e1zrak, ra\u017een\u00fd p\u0159\u00edmo skrz aktivn\u00ed sope\u010dn\u00e9 podlo\u017e\u00ed, propojuje prefektury Gifu a Nagano. Severn\u00ed Japonsk\u00e9 Alpy zde funguj\u00ed jako mohutn\u00e1 pov\u011btrnostn\u00ed hradba. Mraky p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed od Japonsk\u00e9ho mo\u0159e se \u010dasto zachyt\u00ed a vypr\u0161\u00ed na z\u00e1padn\u00ed stran\u011b (v Gifu), zat\u00edmco na z\u00e1v\u011btrn\u00e9 stran\u011b v Naganu panuje zcela odli\u0161n\u00e9 klima. P\u0159esn\u011b to se stalo n\u00e1m. Po pr\u016fjezdu temn\u00fdm tunelem jsme ne\u010dekan\u011b vyjeli do z\u00e1\u0159iv\u00e9ho, sluncem zalit\u00e9ho dne s dokonalou viditelnost\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vstup do samotn\u00e9ho \u00fadol\u00ed Kamik\u00f3\u010di, le\u017e\u00edc\u00edho v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 1500 metr\u016f, podl\u00e9h\u00e1 velmi p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fdm pravidl\u016fm. Abyste ochr\u00e1nili zdej\u0161\u00ed panenskou p\u0159\u00edrodu n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku <em>\u010c\u00fabu Sangaku<\/em>, nesm\u00edte sem vjet soukrom\u00fdm autem. Doprava je striktn\u011b omezena na speci\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00edzkoemisn\u00ed autobusy a licencovan\u00e9 tax\u00edky. I d\u00edky t\u00e9to absolutn\u00ed absenci individu\u00e1ln\u00edho motorismu si \u00fadol\u00ed zachov\u00e1v\u00e1 neskute\u010dn\u011b \u010dist\u00fd vzduch a hlubok\u00fd klid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a35590baa78150660dfd66b\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a35590baa78150660dfd66b\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na\u0161e p\u011b\u0161\u00ed t\u00fara za\u010dala u rybn\u00edka <em>Tai\u0161\u00f3<\/em>. Pokud byste \u010dekali prastar\u00e9 ledovcov\u00e9 jezero, budete p\u0159ekvapeni. Tento vodn\u00ed masiv s temn\u011b tyrkysovou vodou vznikl vlastn\u011b docela ned\u00e1vno, a to v roce 1915. Tehdy do\u0161lo k masivn\u00ed erupci nedalek\u00e9 aktivn\u00ed sopky <em>Jakedake<\/em>. Obrovsk\u00fd sesuv bahna a kamen\u00ed tehdy kompletn\u011b p\u0159ehradil koryto pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 \u0159eky Azusa a b\u011bhem noci vytvo\u0159il tento hlubok\u00fd rybn\u00edk. Vizu\u00e1ln\u00edm symbolem jezera jsou z vody tr\u010d\u00edc\u00ed pah\u00fdly mrtv\u00fdch strom\u016f. P\u016fvodn\u00ed mod\u0159\u00edny a jedle byly b\u011bhem sope\u010dn\u00e9 erupce bleskov\u011b utopeny. Chladn\u00e1 a miner\u00e1ln\u011b bohat\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 voda d\u0159evo v podstat\u011b zakonzervovala, tak\u017ee i po v\u00edce ne\u017e sto letech tato surrealistick\u00e1 torza st\u00e1le \u010del\u00ed vodn\u00ed hladin\u011b a tvo\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1dhern\u00fd kontrast k dramatick\u00fdm \u0161t\u00edt\u016fm poho\u0159\u00ed Hotaka v pozad\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Samotn\u00fd trek pod\u00e9l krystalicky \u010dist\u00e9 \u0159eky Azusa je \u010dirou radost\u00ed. B\u011bhem ch\u016fze si ale brzy uv\u011bdom\u00edte jednu zvukovou zvl\u00e1\u0161tnost. Hukot drav\u00e9 \u0159eky pravideln\u011b dopl\u0148uje neust\u00e1l\u00e9 jemn\u00e9 kovov\u00e9 cink\u00e1n\u00ed. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 ka\u017ed\u00fd japonsk\u00fd turista m\u00e1 toti\u017e na batohu p\u0159ipnutou speci\u00e1ln\u00ed rolni\u010dku \u010di zvone\u010dek zvan\u00fd <em>kumasuzu<\/em>. Nejde o m\u00f3dn\u00ed v\u00fdst\u0159elek, ale o bezpe\u010dnostn\u00ed vybaven\u00ed. Kamik\u00f3\u010di je p\u0159irozen\u00fdm domovem medv\u011bda u\u0161at\u00e9ho, kter\u00e9mu se zde \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 <em>tsukinowaguma<\/em> (m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed medv\u011bd). Zdej\u0161\u00ed populace je pom\u011brn\u011b hojn\u00e1 a spr\u00e1va parku bedliv\u011b monitoruje ka\u017ed\u00e9 zpozorov\u00e1n\u00ed. Tito medv\u011bdi jsou ov\u0161em p\u0159irozen\u011b pla\u0161\u00ed a ke konflikt\u016fm doch\u00e1z\u00ed prakticky jen tehdy, kdy\u017e zv\u00ed\u0159e ne\u010dekan\u011b zasko\u010d\u00edte. Zvone\u010dky tak pln\u00ed logickou funkci \u2013 neust\u00e1l\u00fdm cink\u00e1n\u00edm d\u00e1v\u00e1te u\u017e z d\u00e1lky medv\u011bd\u016fm najevo svou p\u0159\u00edtomnost, aby m\u011bli dostatek \u010dasu v klidu zmizet v lesn\u00edm porostu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokud o sob\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1te v\u011bd\u011bt a respektujete pravidla, je pr\u016fchod divo\u010dinou bezpe\u010dn\u00fdm a fascinuj\u00edc\u00edm z\u00e1\u017eitkem. Proch\u00e1zka t\u011bmito m\u00edsty jasn\u011b dokazuje, \u017ee Japonsko zdaleka nejsou jen neonov\u00e9 metropole, ale tak\u00e9 dechberouc\u00ed, respekt vzbuzuj\u00edc\u00ed p\u0159\u00edroda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a355a7aaa78150660e058c0\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a355a7aaa78150660e058c0\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Po dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v prefektu\u0159e Ishikawa n\u00e1s \u010dekal p\u0159esun do hor. Z Kanazawy jsme tentokr\u00e1t vyrazili autobusem skrze masivn\u00ed tunely a \u00fazk\u00e9 klikat\u00e9 pr\u016fsmyky poho\u0159\u00ed Hida. Cesta nab\u00edz\u00ed \u00fachvatn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na divokou krajinu, ale to prav\u00e9 in\u017een\u00fdrsk\u00e9 a kulturn\u00ed unikum na v\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 a\u017e v samotn\u00e9m \u00fadol\u00ed \u0159eky \u0160\u00f3gawa, kde jsme si ud\u011blali p\u016fldenn\u00ed zast\u00e1vku. &#8230; <a title=\"\u010c\u00e1st 4: Japonsk\u00e9 Alpy \u2013 Architektura modl\u00edc\u00edch se rukou, um\u011bn\u00ed hork\u00fdch pramen\u016f a zkou\u0161ka z jadern\u00e9 mixologie\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=904\" aria-label=\"\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce o \u010c\u00e1st 4: Japonsk\u00e9 Alpy \u2013 Architektura modl\u00edc\u00edch se rukou, um\u011bn\u00ed hork\u00fdch pramen\u016f a zkou\u0161ka z jadern\u00e9 mixologie\">\u010c\u00edst d\u00e1l<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":908,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[293,294,295],"class_list":["post-904","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","tag-kamikoci","tag-sirakawa-go","tag-takajama"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/904","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=904"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/904\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":919,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/904\/revisions\/919"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/908"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=904"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=904"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=904"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}