{"id":909,"date":"2026-06-19T16:22:35","date_gmt":"2026-06-19T16:22:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=909"},"modified":"2026-06-19T16:22:35","modified_gmt":"2026-06-19T16:22:35","slug":"cast-5-nagoja-navrat-do-civilizace-na-palube-hybridniho-expresu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=909","title":{"rendered":"\u010c\u00e1st 5: Nagoja \u2013 N\u00e1vrat do civilizace na palub\u011b hybridn\u00edho expresu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Po dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v tradi\u010dn\u00ed architektu\u0159e horsk\u00e9 Takajamy n\u00e1s \u010dekal p\u0159esun do pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 a modern\u00ed Nagoje. Cesta dol\u016f z hor po trati Takayama Main Line ov\u0161em nen\u00ed jen oby\u010dejn\u00fdm polyk\u00e1n\u00edm kilometr\u016f. Jde o jednu z nejsc\u00e9ni\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00edch tras v Japonsku. I pro sm\u011br z hor k pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed mimochodem plat\u00ed jedno z\u00e1sadn\u00ed rezerva\u010dn\u00ed pravidlo: v\u017edy \u017e\u00e1dejte sedadla na prav\u00e9 stran\u011b vag\u00f3nu (my jsme m\u011bli c\u00edlen\u011b vybran\u00e1 m\u00edsta 8C, 9C a 9D). Tra\u0165 toti\u017e dlouh\u00e9 des\u00edtky kilometr\u016f kop\u00edruje drav\u00e9 koryto \u0159eky Hida a pr\u00e1v\u011b z t\u00e9to strany se v\u00e1m naskytnou ni\u010d\u00edm neru\u0161en\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy do hlubok\u00fdch ka\u0148on\u016f a na okoln\u00ed zalesn\u011bn\u00e9 masivy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Samotn\u00fd vlak, kter\u00fdm jsme cestovali, stoj\u00ed za pozornost i po technick\u00e9 str\u00e1nce. Nastoupili jsme do spoje <em>Limited Express Hida<\/em>. Velk\u00e1 panoramatick\u00e1 okna, kter\u00e1 sahaj\u00ed nezvykle n\u00edzko, a m\u00edrn\u011b vyv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e1 podlaha zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed, \u017ee i z uli\u010dky m\u00e1te perfektn\u00ed v\u00fdhled ven. Dlouh\u00e1 desetilet\u00ed tu jezdily legend\u00e1rn\u00ed naftov\u00e9 stroje \u0159ady <em>KiHa 85<\/em>. My jsme u\u017e ale m\u011bli tu \u010dest jet zbrusu novou generac\u00ed s ozna\u010den\u00edm <em>HC85<\/em> (p\u00edsmena HC znamenaj\u00ed Hybrid Car).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nen\u00ed to oby\u010dejn\u00fd \u201enaf\u0165\u00e1k\u201c. Jedn\u00e1 se o v\u016fbec prvn\u00ed japonsk\u00fd hybridn\u00ed vlak pro expresn\u00ed linky, kter\u00fd je schopen dos\u00e1hnout rychlosti 120 km\/h. Jeho pohon funguje na principu takzvan\u00e9ho s\u00e9riov\u00e9ho hybridu. Naftov\u00fd \u0161estiv\u00e1lec o v\u00fdkonu zhruba 450 kon\u00ed tu neslou\u017e\u00ed k p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9mu pohonu kol p\u0159es p\u0159evodovku. Funguje v\u00fdhradn\u011b jako gener\u00e1tor, kter\u00fd vyr\u00e1b\u00ed elekt\u0159inu a ukl\u00e1d\u00e1 ji do lithium-iontov\u00fdch bateri\u00ed pod podlahou. Samotn\u00fd pohyb vlaku pak zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed modern\u00ed synchronn\u00ed trak\u010dn\u00ed elektromotory s permanentn\u00edmi magnety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">D\u00edky t\u00e9to koncepci vlak p\u0159i nekone\u010dn\u00e9m brzd\u011bn\u00ed z prudk\u00fdch horsk\u00fdch svah\u016f sm\u011brem k Nagoji neust\u00e1le rekuperuje energii zp\u011bt do bateri\u00ed. V\u00fdsledek? Spot\u0159eba paliva i emise radik\u00e1ln\u011b klesly, ale co ocen\u00edte nejv\u00edce \u2013 v kabin\u011b je i p\u0159es pou\u017eit\u00ed mohutn\u00e9ho spalovac\u00edho motoru klid a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nulov\u00e9 vibrace. Nen\u00ed divu, \u017ee tato elegantn\u00ed souprava z lehk\u00e9 nerezov\u00e9 oceli z\u00edskala presti\u017en\u00ed japonsk\u00e9 ocen\u011bn\u00ed Blue Ribbon Award za vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed design a technologii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A je\u0161t\u011b jeden drobn\u00fd detail pro milovn\u00edky estetiky. Pokud si v\u0161imnete potah\u016f sedadel v b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 t\u0159\u00edd\u011b, p\u0159ech\u00e1zej\u00ed z \u010derven\u00e9 do oran\u017eov\u00e9 barvy. Design\u00e9\u0159i se zde inspirovali podzimn\u00edmi barvami javorov\u00fdch list\u016f, kter\u00e9 lemuj\u00ed horskou tra\u0165 p\u0159esn\u011b v t\u011bchto m\u00edstech.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V takov\u00e9m komfortu jsme po v\u00edce ne\u017e dvou hodin\u00e1ch j\u00edzdy plynule vjeli na rozlehl\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v Nagoji, odpo\u010dat\u00ed a p\u0159ipraveni prozkoumat dal\u0161\u00ed technologick\u00e9 i historick\u00e9 perly tohoto m\u011bsta&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nagoja: Pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 srdce, \u0161irok\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry a rodi\u0161t\u011b pa\u010dinka<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokud si otev\u0159ete v\u011bt\u0161inu b\u011b\u017en\u00fdch cestopis\u016f, Nagoju v nich \u010dasto najdete popsanou jen jako nudn\u00fd tranzitn\u00ed uzel mezi Tokiem a Kj\u00f3tem. To je ale obrovsk\u00e1 chyba. \u010ctvrt\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed japonsk\u00e9 m\u011bsto je toti\u017e industri\u00e1ln\u00edm a technologick\u00fdm srdcem zem\u011b. Pr\u00e1v\u011b z t\u00e9to oblasti poch\u00e1zej\u00ed v\u0161ichni t\u0159i velc\u00ed sjednotitel\u00e9 Japonska (Oda Nobunaga, Tojotomi Hidejo\u0161i i Tokugawa Iejasu).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kdy\u017e vyjdete z n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, okam\u017eit\u011b v\u00e1s do o\u010d\u00ed pra\u0161t\u00ed jedna urbanistick\u00e1 anom\u00e1lie. Na rozd\u00edl od st\u00edsn\u011bn\u00e9ho Tokia nebo Kj\u00f3ta m\u00e1 Nagoja neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b \u0161irok\u00e9 a rovn\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry. T\u0159\u00edda Hisaja \u00d3d\u00f3ri m\u00e1 na \u0161\u00ed\u0159ku cel\u00fdch sto metr\u016f. D\u016fvod je prost\u00fd a temn\u00fd z\u00e1rove\u0148 \u2013 m\u011bsto bylo za druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky kv\u016fli sv\u00e9mu t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9mu a leteck\u00e9mu pr\u016fmyslu prakticky srovn\u00e1no se zem\u00ed kobercov\u00fdmi n\u00e1lety. Pov\u00e1le\u010dn\u00ed in\u017een\u00fd\u0159i ho tak mohli na zelen\u00e9 louce p\u0159ebudovat rovnou s ohledem na masivn\u00ed automobilovou dopravu. A je\u0161t\u011b jedna perli\u010dka pro milovn\u00edky retro her: pr\u00e1v\u011b tady v Nagoji se po v\u00e1lce zrodil fenom\u00e9n mechanick\u00fdch hern\u00edch automat\u016f <em>pa\u010dinko<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">My jsme sem ov\u0161em p\u0159ijeli za jin\u00fdm fenom\u00e9nem. Nagoja je synonymem pro zna\u010dku Toyota. Pokud si ale mysl\u00edte, \u017ee v\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 jen jedna velk\u00e1 gar\u00e1\u017e pln\u00e1 aut, hluboko se m\u00fdl\u00edte. Ve m\u011bst\u011b se nach\u00e1zej\u00ed hned dv\u011b odli\u0161n\u00e1, rozs\u00e1hl\u00e1 muzea. A ob\u011b mus\u00edte vid\u011bt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Toyota Commemorative Museum: Od niti k motoru a ne\u010dekan\u00e1 \u010desk\u00e1 stopa<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na\u0161e prvn\u00ed zast\u00e1vka m\u00ed\u0159ila do Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology, kter\u00e9 le\u017e\u00ed kousek od centra ve \u010dtvrti Sako. Muzeum se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v p\u016fvodn\u00edch, pe\u010dliv\u011b zrestaurovan\u00fdch hal\u00e1ch z \u010derven\u00fdch cihel. Prvn\u00ed polovina expozice v\u00e1s toti\u017e mo\u017en\u00e1 p\u0159ekvap\u00ed \u2013 nejsou tu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 auta, ale obrovsk\u00e9 tkalcovsk\u00e9 stavy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Zakladatel imp\u00e9ria, Saki\u010di Tojoda, toti\u017e neza\u010d\u00ednal s p\u00edsty a koly, ale v textiln\u00edm pr\u016fmyslu. Jeho nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm vyn\u00e1lezem byl pln\u011b automatick\u00fd stav (Type G) z roku 1924. M\u011bl jednu geni\u00e1ln\u00ed mechanickou vlastnost: pokud se p\u0159etrhla by\u0165 jen jedin\u00e1 nit, stroj se okam\u017eit\u011b s\u00e1m zastavil, aby neprodukoval zmetky. Tento princip, naz\u00fdvan\u00fd <em>jidoka<\/em> (automatizace s lidsk\u00fdm dohledem), se stal absolutn\u00edm z\u00e1kladn\u00edm kamenem pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edho legend\u00e1rn\u00edho v\u00fdrobn\u00edho syst\u00e9mu Toyoty u automobil\u016f. A\u017e Saki\u010diho syn, Kii\u010dir\u00f3 Tojoda, vzal pen\u00edze z prodeje textiln\u00edch patent\u016f a zariskoval \u2013 zalo\u017eil divizi na v\u00fdrobu aut. V druh\u00e9 hale u\u017e pak kr\u00e1\u010d\u00edte fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed histori\u00ed stroj\u00edrenstv\u00ed. Od ob\u0159\u00edch buchar\u016f, p\u0159es prvn\u00ed ru\u010dn\u00ed odl\u00e9v\u00e1n\u00ed blok\u016f motor\u016f, a\u017e po lisy o velikosti rodinn\u00e9ho domu, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ed v\u00e1mi v re\u00e1ln\u00e9m \u010dase formuj\u00ed kusy karoseri\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pr\u00e1v\u011b v automobilov\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti jsem za\u017eil jeden z nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00edch moment\u016f cel\u00e9 cesty. B\u011bhem toho, co jsem se sklon\u011bn\u00fd s fo\u0165\u00e1kem sna\u017eil ulovit detaily podvozku a motoru jednoho z historick\u00fdch model\u016f, ke mn\u011b nen\u00e1padn\u011b p\u0159istoupil postar\u0161\u00ed japonsk\u00fd kustod v dokonale padnouc\u00ed uniform\u011b. Chv\u00edli sledoval m\u00e9 zaujet\u00ed a pak se zdvo\u0159ile anglicky zeptal, odkud jsem. Kdy\u017e jsem odpov\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee z \u010cesk\u00e9 republiky, jeho tv\u00e1\u0159 se okam\u017eit\u011b rozjasnila. S v\u00e1\u017enost\u00ed a hlubokou \u00faklonou mi \u0159ekl v\u011btu, kter\u00e1 m\u011b naprosto odzbrojila:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201eJm\u00e9nem cel\u00e9 Toyoty v\u00e1m d\u011bkuji. Byli to toti\u017e ti nejlep\u0161\u00ed japon\u0161t\u00ed in\u017een\u00fd\u0159i, kte\u0159\u00ed odjeli studovat k v\u00e1m do \u010cesk\u00e9 republiky. Velice si va\u0161\u00ed zem\u011b a va\u0161ich in\u017een\u00fdr\u016f v\u00e1\u017e\u00edme.\u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z\u016fstal jsem st\u00e1t jako opa\u0159en\u00fd. A\u017e pozd\u011bji mi do\u0161lo, jak hlubokou historickou pravdu ten mu\u017e pronesl. \u010ceskoslovensko bylo toti\u017e v pades\u00e1t\u00fdch a \u0161edes\u00e1t\u00fdch letech sv\u011btovou \u0161pi\u010dkou v textiln\u00edm stroj\u00edrenstv\u00ed. Zlat\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 ruce (konkr\u00e9tn\u011b vyn\u00e1lezce Vladim\u00edr Svat\u00fd z Liberce) tehdy stvo\u0159ily v\u016fbec prvn\u00ed tryskov\u00fd tkalcovsk\u00fd stav na sv\u011bt\u011b. Japonsk\u00e9 delegace, v\u010detn\u011b expert\u016f od Toyoty a Nissanu, k n\u00e1m tehdy skute\u010dn\u011b jezdily tento patent studovat a licencovat, proto\u017ee znamenal revoluci. Ten moment, kdy v\u00e1m na druh\u00e9m konci sv\u011bta pod\u011bkuje z\u00e1stupce nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed automobilky planety za um \u010desk\u00fdch mozk\u016f, si zkr\u00e1tka zapamatujete nav\u017edy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a356194aa78150660e315a4\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a356194aa78150660e315a4\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Po stop\u00e1ch samuraj\u016f: P\u011b\u0161ky \u00fadol\u00edm Kiso z Magome do Cumaga<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kdy\u017e u\u017e m\u00e1te z\u00e1kladnu v modern\u00ed a pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 Nagoji, byla by obrovsk\u00e1 chyba nevyrazit na jeden z nejlep\u0161\u00edch historick\u00fdch trek\u016f, jak\u00e9 Japonsko nab\u00edz\u00ed. Autobusem jsme vyrazili do \u00fadol\u00ed Kiso, abychom si pro\u0161li \u00fasek legend\u00e1rn\u00ed stezky Nakasend\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pro pochopen\u00ed kontextu: v obdob\u00ed Edo (1603\u20131867) existovalo p\u011bt hlavn\u00edch cest, kter\u00e9 spojovaly tehdej\u0161\u00ed hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Edo (dne\u0161n\u00ed Tokio) s Kj\u00f3tem. Nakasend\u00f3 byla tou nejdel\u0161\u00ed z nich. M\u011b\u0159ila p\u0159es 500 kilometr\u016f a vedla drsn\u00fdm vnitrozem\u00edm p\u0159es hory. Vyu\u017e\u00edvali ji p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm bohat\u00ed samurajov\u00e9, feud\u00e1ln\u00ed p\u00e1nov\u00e9 a princezny, proto\u017ee na rozd\u00edl od pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed cesty T\u00f3kaid\u00f3 zde nehrozilo nebezpe\u010d\u00ed hlubok\u00fdch brod\u016f p\u0159es rozvodn\u011bn\u00e9 \u0159eky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na\u0161e p\u011b\u0161\u00ed cesta za\u010dala ve vesnici Magome. Tato b\u00fdval\u00e1 po\u0161tovn\u00ed stanice (jeden z 69 z\u00e1chytn\u00fdch bod\u016f na trase, kter\u00fdm se \u0159\u00edkalo <em>juku<\/em>) je unik\u00e1tn\u00ed sv\u00fdm urbanismem. V\u011bt\u0161ina podobn\u00fdch stanic se stav\u011bla na rovin\u011b, ale Magome je posazen\u00e9 v pom\u011brn\u011b p\u0159\u00edkr\u00e9m svahu. Centrem vesnice prot\u00e9k\u00e1 d\u016fmysln\u00fd syst\u00e9m vodn\u00edch kan\u00e1l\u016f, kter\u00e9 dodnes poh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed masivn\u00ed d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e1 ml\u00fdnsk\u00e1 kola. Z\u00e1stavba byla v minulosti n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t zni\u010dena po\u017e\u00e1ry, ale Japonci ji do posledn\u00edho tr\u00e1mu obnovili pomoc\u00ed p\u016fvodn\u00edch tesa\u0159sk\u00fdch postup\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z Magome jsme vyrazili na samotn\u00fd trek. Cesta vede skrz hust\u00e9 lesy pln\u00e9 japonsk\u00fdch cyp\u0159i\u0161k\u016f (<em>hinoki<\/em>). D\u0159evo z t\u00e9to konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed oblasti bylo v historii natolik cenn\u00e9, \u017ee bylo vyhrazeno pouze pro stavbu nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u0161intoistick\u00fdch chr\u00e1m\u016f (v\u010detn\u011b slavn\u00e9 svatyn\u011b Ise) a za pok\u00e1cen\u00ed jedin\u00e9ho stromu bez povolen\u00ed se platilo useknut\u00edm hlavy. Cesta je n\u00e1dhern\u011b udr\u017eovan\u00e1, m\u00edsty dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00e1 p\u016fvodn\u00edmi kameny, a i zde naraz\u00edte na mosazn\u00e9 zvonce proti medv\u011bd\u016fm (<em>kumasuzu<\/em>), do kter\u00fdch mus\u00ed proch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed turist\u00e9 ob\u010das s chut\u00ed pra\u0161tit pali\u010dkou, aby o sob\u011b dali divok\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b v\u011bd\u011bt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Zhruba po t\u0159ech hodin\u00e1ch pohodov\u00e9 ch\u016fze horsk\u00fdmi pr\u016fsmyky a kolem star\u00fdch \u010dajoven se p\u0159ed v\u00e1mi otev\u0159e c\u00edl: vesnice Cumago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">P\u0159i vstupu do Cumaga za\u017eijete naprost\u00fd vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed \u0161ok a cestu v \u010dase do 18. stolet\u00ed. Tato vesnice se toti\u017e v roce 1968 stala v\u016fbec prvn\u00edm m\u00edstem v cel\u00e9m Japonsku, kter\u00e9 zavedlo plo\u0161nou a absolutn\u011b nekompromisn\u00ed pam\u00e1tkovou ochranu. M\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 se tehdy dohodli na t\u0159ech \u017eelezn\u00fdch pravidlech: \u201eNeprod\u00e1vat, nepronaj\u00edmat, neni\u010dit\u201c. N\u00e1sledovala neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e1 technologick\u00e1 a estetick\u00e1 \u010distka. Obyvatel\u00e9 nechali kompletn\u011b zakopat ve\u0161ker\u00e9 elektrick\u00e9, telefonn\u00ed i datov\u00e9 kabely pod zem, tak\u017ee v\u00e1m nad hlavou nevis\u00ed jedin\u00fd dr\u00e1t. Z fas\u00e1d zmizely v\u0161echny modern\u00ed ant\u00e9ny, plastov\u00e9 zna\u010dky i automaty na n\u00e1poje a ulice nesm\u00ed k\u0159i\u017eovat \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 auta. Kr\u00e1\u010d\u00edte tu mezi tmav\u00fdmi d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdmi domy se zata\u017een\u00fdmi posuvn\u00fdmi panely a pap\u00edrov\u00fdmi lucernami a iluze star\u00e9ho feud\u00e1ln\u00edho Japonska je tu dovedena k naprost\u00e9, nedot\u010den\u00e9 dokonalosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a35624daa78150660e368db\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a35624daa78150660e368db\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Toyota Automobile Museum: Nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed automobilov\u00fd chr\u00e1m<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dal\u0161\u00ed den jsme se p\u0159esunuli na p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed do Nagakute, kde le\u017e\u00ed Toyota Automobile Museum. Pokud m\u00e1te k aut\u016fm jen trochu vztah, a obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 pokud jako j\u00e1 ob\u010das stav\u00edte jejich zmen\u0161en\u00e9 kopie, p\u0159ipravte si brynd\u00e1k. Tohle bylo bez jak\u00fdchkoliv debat to nejhez\u010d\u00ed a nejl\u00e9pe uspo\u0159\u00e1dan\u00e9 automobilov\u00e9 muzeum, jak\u00e9 jsem v \u017eivot\u011b vid\u011bl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">N\u00e1zev je vlastn\u011b dost klamav\u00fd. Nen\u00ed to toti\u017e muzeum Toyoty. Je to monument\u00e1ln\u00ed oslava celosv\u011btov\u00e9 historie motorismu. Japonci zde s neuv\u011b\u0159itelnou pe\u010dlivost\u00ed, logikou a \u00factou shrom\u00e1\u017edili p\u0159es 140 vozidel z cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta, a to bez ohledu na zna\u010dku. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 jednotliv\u00e9 auto, od prvn\u00edho Benzova motorov\u00e9ho vozu z roku 1886 a\u017e po modern\u00ed supersporty, je v bezchybn\u00e9m, pln\u011b funk\u010dn\u00edm stavu. Neuvid\u00edte tu ani sm\u00edtko prachu, ani kapku unikl\u00e9ho oleje. Odlesky na lac\u00edch jsou tak dokonal\u00e9, jako by auta pr\u00e1v\u011b vyjela z lakovny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Proch\u00e1z\u00edte tu chronologicky v\u00fdvojem designu a techniky. O\u010di v\u00e1m budou p\u0159ech\u00e1zet z masivn\u00edch americk\u00fdch k\u0159i\u017en\u00edk\u016f z pades\u00e1t\u00fdch let (jako je kultovn\u00ed Tucker &#8217;48 se t\u0159et\u00edm st\u0159edov\u00fdm sv\u011btlometem, kter\u00fd se ot\u00e1\u010del s volantem) na elegantn\u00ed evropsk\u00e9 stroje typu Bugatti Type 35 nebo Mercedes-Benz 500K s jeho mohutn\u00fdm kompresorem. Dechberouc\u00ed je i sekce v\u011bnovan\u00e1 zlat\u00e9 \u00e9\u0159e japonsk\u00fdch sportovn\u00edch aut ze \u0161edes\u00e1t\u00fdch a sedmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch let. Vedle legend\u00e1rn\u00edho Nissanu Skyline a rota\u010dn\u00edm motorem poh\u00e1n\u011bn\u00e9 Mazdy Cosmo Sport tu stoj\u00ed svat\u00fd gr\u00e1l \u2013 Toyota 2000GT. Tohle ladn\u00e9 kup\u00e9, kter\u00e9 si zahr\u00e1lo i v bondovce \u017dije\u0161 jenom dvakr\u00e1t, definovalo japonsk\u00fd design a dok\u00e1zalo sv\u011btu, \u017ee in\u017een\u00fd\u0159i ze zem\u011b vych\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edho slunce um\u00ed postavit auto rovnocenn\u00e9 s evropsk\u00fdmi Jaguary \u010di Porsche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V\u0161e je nav\u00edc podpo\u0159eno promy\u0161len\u00fdm nasv\u00edcen\u00edm, dokonalou expozic\u00ed dobov\u00fdch plak\u00e1t\u016f, maskot\u016f z chladi\u010d\u016f a v\u00fdvojem designu v kontextu sv\u011btov\u00e9 kultury. Nen\u00ed to jen parkovi\u0161t\u011b drah\u00fdch aut. Je to m\u00edsto, kde ka\u017ed\u00e1 expozice vypr\u00e1v\u00ed ucelen\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh. Str\u00e1vili jsme tu hodiny zkoum\u00e1n\u00edm ladn\u00fdch tvar\u016f, p\u0159echod\u016f palubn\u00edch desek a technick\u00fdch \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed n\u00e1prav. Pokud zav\u00edt\u00e1te do Nagoje, n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva tohoto chr\u00e1mu \u010dty\u0159 kol mus\u00ed b\u00fdt povinnost\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a356277aa78150660e37a26\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a356277aa78150660e37a26\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ztraceni v \u010dase: Japonsk\u00fd rock&#8217;n&#8217;roll pro pokro\u010dil\u00e9<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">N\u011bkdy si napl\u00e1nujete ve\u010der pln\u00fd objevov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed nez\u00e1visl\u00e9 hudebn\u00ed sc\u00e9ny, a nakonec se ocitnete v \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9m \u010dasoprostoru. P\u0159esn\u011b to se n\u00e1m p\u0159ihodilo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">M\u016fj syn Jay s man\u017eelkou B\u00e1rou p\u0159i\u0161li s par\u00e1dn\u00edm n\u00e1padem: \u201eP\u016fjdeme do klubu na \u017eiv\u00fd koncert m\u00edstn\u00edch amat\u00e9rsk\u00fdch kapel!\u201c Jako \u010dlov\u011bk, jeho\u017e hudebn\u00ed srdce bije sp\u00ed\u0161e pro poctiv\u00fd rock a metal, jsem byl docela zv\u011bdav\u00fd, co n\u00e1m japonsk\u00fd underground naserv\u00edruje. Vyrazili jsme tedy do v\u00edru m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kdy\u017e jsme dorazili na m\u00edsto, klub vypadal p\u0159esn\u011b jako klasick\u00e1 americk\u00e1 tan\u010d\u00edrna z pades\u00e1t\u00fdch let. Atmosf\u00e9ra byla tak autentick\u00e1, \u017ee byste \u010dekali, \u017ee u mikrofonu je\u0161t\u011b v\u010dera st\u00e1l samotn\u00fd Elvis. Co n\u00e1s ale okam\u017eit\u011b pra\u0161tilo do o\u010d\u00ed, byl v\u011bkov\u00fd pr\u016fm\u011br p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fdch host\u016f. Za\u010dal n\u011bkde na \u0161edes\u00e1tce, a to mluv\u00edm o t\u011bch \u201e\u0161edes\u00e1t hodn\u011b plus\u201c. Ve sv\u00fdch t\u0159iapades\u00e1ti letech jsem se tam najednou c\u00edtil jako to \u00fapln\u011b nejmlad\u0161\u00ed ucho v s\u00e1le.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z\u00e1hada se brzy vy\u0159e\u0161ila. Zjistili jsme, \u017ee slibovan\u00fd koncert amat\u00e9rsk\u00fdch kapel se odehr\u00e1l u\u017e minul\u00fd t\u00fdden. Dne\u0161n\u00ed ve\u010der pat\u0159il m\u00edstn\u00ed kapele, kter\u00e1 do lid\u00ed prala ty nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed hity 50. a 60. let.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A v\u00edte co? Byla to pecka. Pokud si mysl\u00edte, \u017ee senio\u0159i v Japonsku tr\u00e1v\u00ed ve\u010dery jen u poklidn\u00e9ho pop\u00edjen\u00ed \u010daje, tak v\u00e1s mus\u00edm vyv\u00e9st z omylu. To, jak to tihle veter\u00e1ni dok\u00e1zali na parketu rozbalit, jsem je\u0161t\u011b nevid\u011bl. Energie, sm\u00edch, uvoln\u011bn\u00ed a tane\u010dn\u00ed nasazen\u00ed, kter\u00e9 by utahalo i teenagery. Bylo to neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b mil\u00e9 a vtipn\u00e9. Tohle u n\u00e1s zkr\u00e1tka nem\u00e1me. Holt Japonsko&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ztraceni v p\u0159ekladu a nagojsk\u00e1 z\u00e1hada \u0161esti toast\u016f<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">P\u0159i prozkoum\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed Nagoje jsme jedno r\u00e1no narazili na vylo\u017een\u011b autentick\u00e9, star\u00e9 retro caf\u00e9 (v Japonsku se t\u011bmto tradi\u010dn\u00edm kav\u00e1rn\u00e1m \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 <em>kissaten<\/em>). Nebyla to \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 steriln\u00ed modern\u00ed fran\u0161\u00edza, ale podnik, kde se zastavil \u010das kdesi v sedmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch letech, von\u011blo to tam pra\u017eenou k\u00e1vou a za pultem vl\u00e1dla star\u0161\u00ed usm\u011bvav\u00e1 pan\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Rychle se uk\u00e1zalo, \u017ee majitelka neum\u00ed anglicky ani pozdravit. Byla ale sk\u00e1lopevn\u011b p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dena o jedn\u00e9 v\u011bci \u2013 kdy\u017e na n\u00e1s, t\u0159i zjevn\u00e9 Evropany, bude mluvit japonsky dostate\u010dn\u011b pomalu a s v\u00fdraznou artikulac\u00ed, ten v\u00fdznam n\u00e1m v hlav\u011b prost\u011b n\u011bjak nasko\u010d\u00ed. Byla u toho tak nesm\u00edrn\u011b mil\u00e1 a sna\u017eiv\u00e1, \u017ee jsme s \u00fasm\u011bvem p\u0159istoupili na hru a pomoc\u00ed gestikulace a univerz\u00e1ln\u00ed znakov\u00e9 \u0159e\u010di si kone\u010dn\u011b objednali na\u0161i sn\u00eddani. Pro n\u00e1s t\u0159i jsme zvolili dva \u010daje, jednu k\u00e1vu a p\u0159im\u011b\u0159en\u00fd po\u010det toast\u016f, tedy pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho jeden set.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Po chv\u00edli n\u00e1m pan\u00ed s hlubokou \u00faklonou p\u0159inesla na\u0161i objedn\u00e1vku. Na stole p\u0159ist\u00e1ly t\u0159i k\u00e1vy a t\u0159i \u010daje. Udiven\u011b jsme ale z\u00edrali na to, co n\u00e1sledovalo. P\u0159ed n\u00e1mi se navr\u0161ila hromada p\u0159esn\u011b \u0161esti porc\u00ed bohat\u011b oblo\u017een\u00fdch toast\u016f. Na\u0161e prvn\u00ed my\u0161lenka byla jasn\u00e1: chud\u00e1k pan\u00ed n\u00e1s bu\u010f \u0161patn\u011b pochopila, nebo si p\u0159i pohledu na na\u0161e evropsk\u00e9 postavy \u0159ekla, \u017ee jsme pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b podvy\u017eiven\u00ed a mus\u00edme m\u00edt stra\u0161liv\u00fd hlad, tak n\u00e1m tu sn\u00edda\u0148ovou porci rad\u011bji pro jistotu zdvojn\u00e1sobila.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Hrad Nagoja: Zlat\u00ed kap\u0159i a v\u016fn\u011b d\u0159eva<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Oby\u010dejn\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 bro\u017eury v\u00e1m \u0159eknou, \u017ee hrad Nagoja z roku 1612, postaven\u00fd na p\u0159\u00edkaz slavn\u00e9ho Tokugawy Iejasua, za v\u00e1lky kompletn\u011b vyho\u0159el p\u0159i kobercov\u00fdch n\u00e1letech a dnes je to jen nezaj\u00edmav\u00e1 betonov\u00e1 replika. To je ale velk\u00fd omyl. Samotn\u00e1 hlavn\u00ed v\u011b\u017e se slavn\u00fdmi zlat\u00fdmi chrli\u010di <em>\u0161a\u010dihoko<\/em> (tvorov\u00e9 s tyg\u0159\u00ed hlavou a kap\u0159\u00edm t\u011blem, kte\u0159\u00ed m\u011bli budovu chr\u00e1nit p\u0159ed ohn\u011bm) je sice moment\u00e1ln\u011b zav\u0159en\u00e1, proto\u017ee se Japonci rozhodli beton strhnout a do roku 2028 v\u011b\u017e znovu postavit \u010dist\u011b ze d\u0159eva, ale ten skute\u010dn\u00fd poklad le\u017e\u00ed hned vedle n\u00ed na n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jde o pal\u00e1c <em>Honmaru Goten<\/em>. Japonci tuto rozlehlou rezidenci ned\u00e1vno kompletn\u011b znovu postavili p\u0159esn\u011b podle dochovan\u00fdch stalet\u00fdch pl\u00e1n\u016f a otev\u0159eli ji v roce 2018. Neuvid\u00edte tu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd beton, s\u00e1drokarton ani ocelov\u00e9 nosn\u00edky. Je to stoprocentn\u00ed mistrovsk\u00e1 d\u0159evostavba ve stylu <em>\u0161oin-zukuri<\/em>, postaven\u00e1 zcela bez pou\u017eit\u00ed h\u0159eb\u00edk\u016f pomoc\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edch tesa\u0159sk\u00fdch spoj\u016f. Jakmile si vyzujete boty a vejdete dovnit\u0159, okam\u017eit\u011b v\u00e1s om\u00e1m\u00ed syt\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b \u010derstv\u00e9ho japonsk\u00e9ho cyp\u0159i\u0161ku (<em>hinoki<\/em>). Ta se m\u00eds\u00ed s odlesky v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9ho pl\u00e1tkov\u00e9ho zlata na posuvn\u00fdch st\u011bn\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 pe\u010dliv\u011b ru\u010dn\u011b pomalovali mist\u0159i z proslul\u00e9 um\u011bleck\u00e9 \u0161koly <em>Kan\u00f3<\/em>. Jde o uk\u00e1zku toho, s jakou fanatickou p\u0159esnost\u00ed a \u00factou k \u0159emeslu dok\u00e1\u017ee Japonsko k\u0159\u00edsit svou historii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Modern\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed pod taktovkou architektonick\u00e9ho mistra<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokud si pot\u0159ebujete po historii trochu vy\u010distit hlavu, ide\u00e1ln\u00edm kontrastem k hradu je Nagoya City Art Museum. Nejde jen o to, co vis\u00ed na st\u011bn\u00e1ch, a\u010dkoli sb\u00edrky zahrnuj\u00edc\u00ed d\u00edla Modiglianiho, mexickou renesanci nebo sou\u010dasn\u00e9 japonsk\u00e9 autory jsou vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed. Hlavn\u00edm tah\u00e1kem pro technick\u00e9 oko je samotn\u00e1 budova.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Navrhl ji slavn\u00fd japonsk\u00fd architekt Ki\u0161\u00f3 Kurokawa (jeden ze zakladatel\u016f architektonick\u00e9ho hnut\u00ed zvan\u00e9ho metabolismus). Le\u017e\u00ed v klidn\u00e9m parku \u0160irakawa a architektura tu funguje jako dokonal\u00fd optick\u00fd klam a hra s prostorem. Aby budova vizu\u00e1ln\u011b nenaru\u0161ovala okoln\u00ed zele\u0148 a stromy, Kurokawa zapustil zna\u010dnou \u010d\u00e1st v\u00fdstavn\u00edch ploch hluboko do podzem\u00ed. Aby ale n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci uvnit\u0159 nem\u011bli pocit st\u00edsn\u011bnosti v bunkru, vytvo\u0159il zde ob\u0159\u00ed prosklen\u00e9 zapu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed, kter\u00e9 p\u0159iv\u00e1d\u00ed m\u011bkk\u00e9 p\u0159irozen\u00e9 sv\u011btlo i do t\u011bch nejni\u017e\u0161\u00edch pater. Proch\u00e1zet t\u00edmto prostorem je stejn\u00fd um\u011bleck\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek jako samotn\u00e9 sledov\u00e1n\u00ed vystaven\u00fdch obraz\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script src=\"https:\/\/eu.zonerama.com\/embd\/Js\/6a356342aa78150660e3d1d5\" type=\"text\/javascript\"><\/script>\n<div id=\"znrm-6a356342aa78150660e3d1d5\"><div style=\"height: 150px; padding-top:150px; border: 1px solid grey; background-color: lightgray; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;\">HTML galerie Zonerama<br \/>HTML galerie 1<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Po dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v tradi\u010dn\u00ed architektu\u0159e horsk\u00e9 Takajamy n\u00e1s \u010dekal p\u0159esun do pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 a modern\u00ed Nagoje. Cesta dol\u016f z hor po trati Takayama Main Line ov\u0161em nen\u00ed jen oby\u010dejn\u00fdm polyk\u00e1n\u00edm kilometr\u016f. Jde o jednu z nejsc\u00e9ni\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00edch tras v Japonsku. I pro sm\u011br z hor k pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed mimochodem plat\u00ed jedno z\u00e1sadn\u00ed rezerva\u010dn\u00ed pravidlo: v\u017edy \u017e\u00e1dejte &#8230; <a title=\"\u010c\u00e1st 5: Nagoja \u2013 N\u00e1vrat do civilizace na palub\u011b hybridn\u00edho expresu\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/?p=909\" aria-label=\"\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce o \u010c\u00e1st 5: Nagoja \u2013 N\u00e1vrat do civilizace na palub\u011b hybridn\u00edho expresu\">\u010c\u00edst d\u00e1l<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":913,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[299,298,296,297],"class_list":["post-909","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","tag-cumaga","tag-magome","tag-nagoja","tag-toyota"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/909","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=909"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/909\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":921,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/909\/revisions\/921"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/913"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=909"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=909"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/worldofruprecht.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=909"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}